Dress-down Friday: Dorelia McNeill

Washing Day circa 1915 by Augustus John OM 1878-1961

Although I have an aversion to the word “muse”, it is probably the best way to describe Dorelia McNeill‘s relationship to Augustus John. First as his mistress and then as his second wife, McNeill (born in 1881) appeared in numerous John paintings and shared the artist’s determination to up-end convention. With their unorthodox relationships and their travelling troupe of children and hangers-on all dressed in gypsy finery, they were one of the most influential couples of their age.

NPG Ax140136; Lady Ottoline Morrell; Dorelia McNeill possibly by Philip Edward Morrell

Nothing better illustrates McNeill’s bohemian otherness than a photograph taken in 1909 which shows her alongside Lady Ottoline Morrell. The latter appears as an unimpeachable Edwardian gentlewoman in fluttering light folds, McNeill a bardic presence in dark uncompromising robes. Another image of McNeill taken by Morrell shows her in a loose shift, a world away from the female fashions of her conventional contemporaries.

In his biography of John, Michael Holroyd expands on her coveted ensembles:

For three decades her taste in clothes was followed by students. She ignored the manner and fashions of London and Paris, and the brash styles that succeeded them. Her style was peculiar to herself.

[…]

From cotton velveteen or shantung in bright dyes and shimmering surfaces, from unusual prints, often Indian or Mediterranean in origin, she evolved clothes that followed the movement of the body, like classic draperies. Her flowing dresses reached the ground, with their high waistline and long sleeves topped by a broad-brimmed straw hat, its sweeping line like those of the French peasants, became a uniform adopted by many girls at art colleges, and a symbol, in their metropolitan surroundings, of an unsevered connection with the country. In the mythology of the young, Dorelia and Augustus were seen as representing the principle of living through your ideas, not merely conveying them to canvas or on paper.

Dorelia died in 1969 and so lived long enough to see her free-flowing innovations adopted by yet another generation, including her step-granddaughter Talitha Getty. The select band of moneyed global nomads of which she was part may have roamed by jet rather than caravan, but they did so in outfits strikingly similar to those pioneered by Dorelia McNeill and Augustus John.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Advertisements

5 comments

  1. “Dorelia in Eastern Dress” looks so impatient. “Augustus, hurry up, today is the day I wash the children’s turbans.”

  2. And he does seem to slightly fetishise her as a washerwoman. I’d be interested to know how much of the burden of maintaining their itinerant lifestyle fell to Dorelia (my best guess is “pretty much all”).

  3. What a great woman – came from nothing to become indispensable in all ways to the supremely talented Augustus John and his sister Gwen. I’d love to have known her.

  4. Pingback: Dress-down Friday: Bryher | Strange Flowers

  5. Pingback: 17-plus books for 2017 | Strange Flowers

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: